Toward the middle of April we sailed in the Holsatia, Captain Brandt, and had a very pleasant trip, indeed. <...> I would have liked to visit the birthplace of
Gutenberg, but it could not be done, as no memorandum of the
site of the house has been kept. <...> So we spent an hour in the
Goethe mansion instead. <...> Frankfort is one of the sixteen cities which have the distinction of being the place where the following incident occurred. <...> The enemy were either before him or behind him;
but in any case he wanted to get across, very badly. <...> He would
have given anything for a guide, but none was to be had. <...> Presently he saw a deer, followed by her young, approach the water. <...> He watched her, judging that she would seek a ford, and he was
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right. <...> So a great Frankish victory or defeat was gained or avoided; and in order to
commemorate the episode, Charlemagne commanded a city to be
built there, which he named Frankfort, — the ford of the Franks,
None of the other cities where this event happened were named
from it. <...> They say that the first movable types were
made on birch sticks, — Buchstabe, — hence the name. <...> I
had brought from home a box containing a thousand very cheap
cigars. <...> In Frankfort everybody wears clean clothes, and I think we
noticed that this strange thing was the case in Hamburg, too, and
in the villages along the road. <...> The little children of both sexes were nearly always nice enough to take into a body’s lap. <...> I shall not mar Garnham’s translation by meddling with its
English; for the most toothsome thing about it is its quaint fash8
ion of building English sentences on the German plan, — and
punctuating them according to no plan at all. <...> In the chapter devoted to “Legends of Frankfort,” I find the
following:
“THE KNAVE OF BERGEN.”
“In Frankfort at the Romer was a great mask-ball, at the
coronation festival, and in the illuminated saloon, the clanging
music invited to dance, and splendidly appeared the rich toilets
and charms of the ladies, and the festively costumed Princes and
Knights. <...> Nobody <...>
The_innocents_abroad_and_other_stories.pdf
CONTENTS
THE TRAMP ABROAD.............................................................7
CHAPTER I.......................................................................7
CHAPTER II ...................................................................10
CHAPTER III..................................................................17
CHAPTER IV..................................................................20
CHAPTER V...................................................................24
CHAPTER VI..................................................................28
CHAPTER VII ................................................................31
CHAPTER VIII ...............................................................36
CHAPTER IX..................................................................44
CHAPTER X...................................................................48
CHAPTER XI..................................................................55
CHAPTER XII ................................................................59
CHAPTER XIII ...............................................................63
CHAPTER XIV...............................................................68
CHAPTER XV................................................................72
CHAPTER XVI...............................................................77
CHAPTER XVII .............................................................83
CHAPTER XVIII ............................................................90
CHAPTER XIX...............................................................97
CHAPTER XX..............................................................105
CHAPTER XXI.............................................................111
CHAPTER XXII ...........................................................118
CHAPTER XXIII ..........................................................127
CHAPTER XXIV..........................................................133
CHAPTER XXV...........................................................138
CHAPTER XXVI..........................................................149
CHAPTER XXVII.........................................................158
CHAPTER XXVIII .......................................................166
CHAPTER XXIX..........................................................175
THE INNOCENTS ABROAD OR THE NEW PILGRIMS’
PROGRESS BEING SOME ACCOUNT OF
THE
STEAMSHIP QUAKER CITY’S PLEASURE EXCURSION
TO EUROPE AND THE HOLY LAND....................181
VOLUME I.........................................................................181
PREFACE......................................................................181
CHAPTER I...................................................................182
CHAPTER II .................................................................188
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CHAPTER III ................................................................192
CHAPTER IV................................................................195
CHAPTER V.................................................................201
CHAPTER VI................................................................207
CHAPTER VII ..............................................................212
CHAPTER VIII .............................................................222
CHAPTER IX................................................................227
CHAPTER X.................................................................231
CHAPTER XI................................................................237
CHAPTER XII ..............................................................242
CHAPTER XIII .............................................................251
CHAPTER XIV.............................................................259
CHAPTER XV..............................................................265
CHAPTER XVI.............................................................274
CHAPTER XVII............................................................279
CHAPTER XVIII ..........................................................287
CHAPTER XIX.............................................................294
CHAPTER XX..............................................................305
CHAPTER XXI.............................................................310
CHAPTER XXII............................................................317
CHAPTER XXIII ..........................................................326
CHAPTER XXIV..........................................................337
CHAPTER XXV...........................................................344
CHAPTER XXVI..........................................................352
CHAPTER XXVII.........................................................367
VOLUME II........................................................................378
CHAPTER I...................................................................378
CHAPTER II .................................................................385
CHAPTER III ................................................................390
CHAPTER IV................................................................397
CHAPTER V.................................................................405
CHAPTER VI................................................................416
CHAPTER VII ..............................................................425
CHAPTER VIII .............................................................435
CHAPTER IX................................................................440
CHAPTER X.................................................................442
CHAPTER XI................................................................452
CHAPTER XII ..............................................................458
CHAPTER XIII .............................................................462
CHAPTER XIV.............................................................470
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CHAPTER XV..............................................................475
CHAPTER XVI.............................................................480
CHAPTER XVII ...........................................................486
CHAPTER XVIII ..........................................................495
CHAPTER XIX.............................................................505
CHAPTER XX..............................................................512
CHAPTER XXI.............................................................523
CHAPTER XXII ...........................................................531
CHAPTER XXIII ..........................................................539
CHAPTER XXIV..........................................................548
CHAPTER XXV...........................................................559
CHAPTER XXVI..........................................................563
CHAPTER XXVII.........................................................576
CHAPTER XXVIII .......................................................585
CHAPTER XXIX..........................................................599
CHAPTER XXX...........................................................603
CHAPTER XXXI..........................................................609
CHAPTER XXXII.........................................................622
CHAPTER XXXIII .......................................................624
CONCLUSION.............................................................633
EVE’S DIARY.........................................................................637
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THE TRAMP ABROAD
CHAPTER I
One day it occurred to me that it had been many years since
the world had been afforded the spectacle of a man adventurous
enough to undertake a journey through Europe on foot. After
much thought, I decided that I was a person fitted to furnish to
mankind this spectacle. So I determined to do it. This was in
March, 1878.
I looked about me for the right sort of person to accompany
me in the capacity of agent, and finally hired a Mr. Harris for
this service.
It was also my purpose to study art while in Europe. Mr.
Harris was in sympathy with me in this. He was as much of an
enthusiast in art as I was, and not less anxious to learn to paint. I
desired to learn the German language; so did Harris.
Toward the middle of April we sailed in the Holsatia, Captain
Brandt, and had a very pleasant trip, indeed.
After a brief rest at Hamburg, we made preparations for a
long pedestrian trip southward in the soft spring weather, but at
the last moment we changed the programme, for private reasons,
and took the express train.
We made a short halt at Frankfort-on-the-Main, and found it
an interesting city. I would have liked to visit the birthplace of
Gutenberg, but it could not be done, as no memorandum of the
site of the house has been kept. So we spent an hour in the
Goethe mansion instead. The city permits this house to belong to
private parties, instead of gracing and dignifying herself with the
honor of possessing and protecting it.
Frankfort is one of the sixteen cities which have the distinction
of being the place where the following incident occurred.
Charlemagne, while chasing the Saxons (as he said), or being
chased by them (as they said), arrived at the bank of the river at
dawn, in a fog. The enemy were either before him or behind him;
but in any case he wanted to get across, very badly. He would
have given anything for a guide, but none was to be had. Presently
he saw a deer, followed by her young, approach the water.
He watched her, judging that she would seek a ford, and he was
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